Vogue UK – Britain’s most prestigious fashion magazine – is turning 100 this year. But how did this infamous publication develop into the Vogue we all know and love today?
The first issue of British Vogue was released in 1916 after Condé Nast experienced problems in distribution from America during World War I. Its first editor, Elspeth Champcommunal, would later go on to become an influential fashion designer. Although at first British Vogue was not particularly different from its American counterpart, it soon began to develop its own personality. Even though the early issues were published during WWI, British Vogue managed to exhibit the most extravagant of morale-boosting fashions. Socialites were photographed by Hoppé, Hugh Cecil and Bertram Park either in uniform or portraying the war in their own way and sending patriotic messages to the public. Some memorable examples include the Duchess of Wellington knitting a sock and the Countess Bathurst in a Red Cross uniform.
Pictured: The first ever British Vogue issue September 1916 costing One Shilling
The publication’s release came as women’s lives were changing dramatically, and they were no longer satisfied simply by being cooks or maids. They had grown more independent and started earning their own living, creating the ideal audience for Vogue UK.
Alexandra Shulman has held her position for the last 24 years, bringing astonishing success to the fashion magazine. She was recognised as one of the top 100 most powerful women in 2013 by the BBC, and has repeatedly proved her credentials and played a vital role in shaping Vogue UK as we know it today. Her predecessor, Elizabeth Tilberis had been editor-in-chief for the British Vogue for 4 years after moving to New York to work for Harper’s Bazaar. Anna Wintour also served as editor-in-chief for the British Vogue from 1985 to 1987 when she took over House and Garden in New York. She would later go on to become editor-in-chief for the American Vogue, a position she still holds 28 years later.
In the digital era where social media and technology now play a key role in the publishing industry, British Vogue has adapted by distributing digitally through iTunes and giving free access to its existing print subscribers. Its social media has a strong following with over 3 million Facebook likes, 1.2 million Instagram followers and over 3.25 million followers on Twitter. Vogue mobile was launched in February 2015, providing an interactive experience for iPhone users. Vogue.co.uk remains an integral part of British Vogue with exclusive content and regular updates, and is an illustration of how the iconic magazine has adapted to the tech generation and maintained its reputation.
Every magazine has a front cover aiming to catch the eye of the reader, and no-one does it better than Vogue. Celebrities and models have graced the cover, from Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell to Princess Diana, Charlize Theron and Beyonce. Vogue UK makes use of the industry’s best fashion photographers, from Mario Testino to Patrick Demarchelier, to create unique and sometimes even controversial covers that ensure its readership always remains high.
Pictured: Kate Moss’ first Vogue cover in March 1993
In 2015, Vogue was ranked 46th in the British print magazines and 16th in digital editions by Media Week. The magazine’s media pack ranks Vogue’s brand reach as the best in its field with competitors like Marie Claire and Elle coming second and third respectively. Although these magazines could be considered competitors, each of them has its own unique selling point, and Vogue’s is its luxury and prestige: with its undisputed reputation as ‘the fashion Bible’. With a readership of over 1 million and a media coverage which equals to an average of 4 mentions per day in print, Vogue is definitely a force to be reckoned with.
To celebrate its 100th anniversary, Vogue UK has put together an exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery titled Vogue 100: A Century of Style. For its fruition, the Vogue 100 team conducted five years of research that took them around the globe to find original prints to be put on display. This exhibition offers an exciting and unmissable opportunity for every fashion enthusiast to delve into the wonderfully stylish world of British Vogue.
Andrea Manouchou
Images: Vogue, The Times