We are well into a new year and a plethora of change and developments flood the fashion industry and can be observed over the last fortnight. It is a time of revolution and an exciting time for fashion – from the new range of all-encompassing Barbies representing the diversity of the modern world, to recognition of new designers and a breakthrough in fashion filmography to honour a renowned designer and a 40-year legacy.
Alexander McQueen: The Movie
First came the exhibition then the play, but news of the McQueen movie due to hit screens next year. The movie will be produced by Pathe, the company behind amazing screen adaptation Suffragette, and will be directed by Andrew Haigh, who most recently worked on the Oscar nominated 45 Years. Cast and plot are yet to be unveiled, but following the success of the McQueen Savage Beauty exhibit at London’s V&A last year, the interest in the film is set to be colossal.
Alexa Chung Does It Again: Behind the Scenes at Vogue
Alexa Chung can do no harm and with her friendly demeanour and likeable personality, she takes to Vogue House inquisitively to find out what these desirable job roles really encompass, and how to secure the most sought after fashion roles (okay, so this bit involves a lot of hard work and determination). The bite-sized 15-minute chunks make them easy to watch and great for on the go. In Part 1 we are introduced to editor-in-chief, Alexandra Shulman and are given a glimpse at the fashion team, including fashion director, Lucinda Chambers. Part 2 sees Chung talk to creative director Jaime Perlman about the role of an art director and the goings on of Vogue.
The BFC Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Shortlist
It has been whittled down to the final five Emilia Wickstead, Mother of Pearl, Osman, Prism and Sophia Webster compete for the prize, which includes a bespoke 12-month mentoring scheme and a £200,000 grant to help build the required infrastructure to allow the winner’s business plan to reach its fruition.
“These brands represent the best of London’s fashion talent as well as showing impressive business acumen,” (BFC CEO Caroline Rush)
The winner will be announced on March the 22nd. Previous winners include a handful of the industries finest talents -Mary Katrantzou, Erdem, Peter Pilotto and Christopher Kane.
American Apparel’s $300 million salvation
American Apparel were handed a lifeline from an investor group involving the reinstatement of the iconic brand’s founder Dov Charney. Dismissing Dov Charney has been pinpointed as explaining the company’s decline and current financial crisis.
“Removing him from the company’s board and leadership was a short-sighted mistake, and we are seeing the results of this error unfold in the declining performance of the company today.” (Chad Hagan, Managing Partner of Hagan Capital, the majority backer for Charney’s bid)
Dov Charney was forced out of the company in 2014 following sexual harassment allegations. Charney, aged 46, founded the company in 1989 and built an apparel company known for its racy advertising and figure-hugging pieces. The bid was rejected earlier this week by US bankruptcy Judge Brendan Shannon.
“At the end of this saga, I, like the many former stockholders, will most likely be left with nothing. Despite that, what gives me great optimism are the things I possess that can’t be stolen by a hedge fund – my ideas, values, drive and my passion. To that end I ask that my supporters stay tuned” (Dov Charney)
YSL opens their doors
YSL fans will be granted access to the late designer’s design space as part of a new exhibition. The new showcase will show original sketches, over 5,000 couture garments and 15,000 accessories and will be held in the former couture house at 5 Avenue Marceau, Paris.
At the same time, a simultaneous showcase will be held in Marrakech – a place where the designer sought inspiration for much of his work. There will be a permanent Yves Saint Laurent display and temporary spaces to house exhibitions, a library and a café. The Jardins Majorelle were visited and adored by Yves Saint Laurent and a place that provided unlimited inspiration for the designer. YSL and Pierre Berge bought the gardens in 1980 and saved them from destruction and the building developments.
“It feels perfectly natural, fifty years later, to build a museum dedicated to his oeuvre, which was so inspired by this country. As for Paris, who needs to specify that it is where Yves Saint Laurent created all his work and built his career?’ (Pierre Berge)
Barbie’s Body Revival
The world’s best selling doll has had a revamp, Mattel have launched 33 new Barbie dolls catering for a spectrum of colours, sizes and builds. The dolls cover 4 body types, 7 different skin tones, 22 eye colours and 24 hairstyles. Mattel created the new range in the hope that it depicts the consumers real world and the everyday girl more accurately; removing the notion that Barbie has to be in keeping with the unattainable, super-skinny ideal. Robert Best, senior director of Barbie product design, said the changes address concerns surrounding girl’s self-esteem when in contact with the dolls. “This is radical because we’re saying there isn’t this narrow standard of what a beautiful body looks like,” Best stated. The dolls hit stores on March the 1st.
Charlotte Olympia for Agent Provocateur
We’ve seen the two brands work together before for two shoe styles where footwear inspired by the lingerie was offered. Now, the tables turn as the shoe designer Charlotte Delal has collaborated with the lingerie brand to create three lingerie sets with three matching shoes. Inspired by Old hollywood Glamour the designs also feature leopard print and Charlotte Olympia’s signature motif cat print. Its seemed a natural progression for both brands as Della stated, “Both brands share similar sensibilities – we’re feminine, playful and love glamour.” The collection features a variety of styles to suit all tastes and figures and its campaign modelled by Julia Restoin- Roitfeld.
The collection launches on January 18 in Agent Provocateur and Charlotte Olympia stores and online, and on Net-A-Porter priced from £95.
Grace Coddington Steps Down
Last week it was revealed that Grace Coddington would step down from her role as creative director for American Vogue, a role she has helmed for 30 fruitful years. She will be sorely missed but her presence will still be felt across future shoots.
“She will work on several Vogue fashion shoots throughout the year.” (Spokesperson)
Couture Fashion Week: The Gallery
L-R: Atelier Versace, Elie Saab, Chanel, Valentino, Armani Prive
*Look out for The Gryphon’s Couture Week Roundup coming soon!*
Edward Enninful Celebrates 25 Years in Fashion
The creative director of W magazine marked 25 years in fashion with a collaboration with Beats by Dre and Nick Knight. The film features a monumental list of some of the biggest names in modelling, from Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Lara Stone to Jourdan Dunn, Karen Elson, Anna Ewers, Karlie Kloss and Mariacarla Boscano. The seven models featured as the seven deadly sins; each with their own song and color, in a 11-minute film played on Friday to his family and friends in Times Square. It premieres to the public on February 13th on SHOWstudio, along with an edition of headphones available by order – one for each model and sin. Green for Jourdan Dunn as Envy, pink for Lara Stone as Gluttony, red for Kate Moss as Lust and black for Naomi Campbell as Pride.
Emma McCormack
Images: The Telegraph, Vogue, Barbie