Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen have come a long way since their days as TV child stars. The twins who were once taking it in turns to play Michelle Tanner are now creators of couture fashion label The Row; named after London’s Saville Row. The brand was first set up in 2006 by Ashley who felt that there was a real need for a basic white t-shirt that was suitable and flattering for all women, not just a small minority. She wanted to create one that would make women of all shapes, sizes and ages feel good whilst wearing it. This idea led Ashley to test the t-shirt on a huge array of women ranging from 20 to 60 years old until the ‘perfect white t-shirt’ that made women feel comfortable and confident was created.

“We noticed that there was no luxury brand that offered simple, minimalist clothes – clothes that you can wear again and again.” Ashley Olsen (Zeit)

The twins’ signature style as they’ve grown into adults has always been a topic of conversation and a point to notice. The oversized knitwear, monochrome palettes and baggy silhouettes is synonymous with what has been called the sister’s “homeless” style. Understated, chic yet exuding luxury. It seems from their collections the famous faces have taken inspiration from their own styles for their brand and collections with voluminous, billowing outlines and minimalistic richness.

L-R: Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen at the MET Gala wearing John Galliano for Dior, The Olsen’s famous street style.

The brand now has tremendous popularity and prestige amongst the fashion world, but it was once seen in a different light. When the Olsen twins first started out there were critics at every corner. Those in the industry found it hard to believe that the two girls who had been teen actresses could create and deliver such a high quality and design fuelled label, especially seeing as previous celebrity designed lines had shown little promise. Throughout numerous meetings with retailers and buyers, the Olsen twins were questioned profusely about their lines, as they were not believed to have designed the garments themselves.

“Our whole point was if it’s good product, it will sell without a label or a logo or a face behind it and it worked.” Mary Kate Olsen (WSJ)

L-R: The Row Resort 2016, The Row Prefall 2015, The Row Spring 2015

From looking at previous collections by The Row, it is obvious that the girls place emphasis on creating eclectic lines where the all the garments complement each other. They use predominantly blacks, whites and neutral tones as well as long, loosely fitted shapes that create classic, simplistic and wearable products. They aim to appeal to those looking for ‘American-everywoman daywear’ that makes the wearer ‘feel expensive’. Nicole Phelps for Vogue comments about their collections that ‘these were not clothes designed to seduce, but they were beguiling nonetheless’. It seems that Mary-Kate and Ashley are mature beyond their years when it comes to their designs, which explains why they’ve been such a success in the fashion world. Proving their fashion empire isn’t limited to just clothing their versatility has been proven with their range of accessories from leather goods to eyewear. Their latest collection faced a drastic change with the location moved from its home in New York to Paris, where the designers showcased an array of design techniques from drapery to loose structured tailoring to more sensual fits with diagonal cuts and transparent fabrics.

“We sit and look at everything in every possible version of how you might wear it. We are all about making our clothes work with reality.” Mary Kate Olsen (Elle)

L-R: The Row SS16 collection

It’s not been an easy road for the brand, as they have faced numerous obstructions on the way. Controversially, the designers continue to use fur and crocodile in their collections, despite a huge outcry from PETA. Not only are their designs under attack but their business has also been critiqued with the latest from a former Intern who filed a lawsuit against Dualstar- the twins’ entertainment company – for mistreatment; underpay, excessive tasks and long hours. The allegations have since been labelled false by the designers and “groundless” with further action due to take place.

Despite the pitfalls the twins continue to demonstrate their capabilities in the world of fashion design, with the twins even bagging the Womenswear Designer of the Year 2015 for The Row a second time after winning in 2012, as well as the Accessories designer of the year in 2014.

The brand itself has grown in the most organic way with the label being ‘a word-of-mouth global success’. Sarah Mower has said that the twins are the few ‘survivors of childhood fame who have extracted and reapplied the positives of their experience to invent themselves as highly effective adults’ and the future for the brand seems extremely bright.

Daniella Bingham