It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas, and what better way to get that festive tingling in your toes than a trip down to Christkindelmarkt. With such a lot of good food and beer on offer it’s no wonder Father Christmas has such a podgy, ruddy glow about him…
Once again it’s the time of year when Millennium Square is invaded by all things German and Christmassy. Upon impact, scrooge-esque apathy is transformed into jolly Christmas cheer; and blinded by tinsel and glittering lights “GOODWILL TO ALL MEN” is proclaimed by everyone once they pass through the entrance.
For those unfamiliar with the festive frolics, a quick guided tour. First, there are a variety of stalls selling gifts and treats. Though some of the stalls sell excellent presents and items, a particular favourite being the metalwork shop, with its array of moving figurines, the rest is slightly underwhelming. Half an hour or so traversing the narrow streets of the market is quite sufficient before the stalls ultimately blur into one. They are definitely worth a look around though, but don’t expect to do all of your Christmas shopping here, unless your entire family are big fans of quirky, novelty items.
Another street reveals authentic German food outlets. These sell everything from Frankfurters (highly recommended and a highlight of the market) to honey shots, (the main taste of which, I was reliably informed, was a strong burning sensation). The choice and quality of food is terrific. The queue for the ‘Alp Chalet Bavarian Eatery’ is often large though well worth the wait. The Frankfurters are definitely worth trying, reasonably priced at just £3.50 for a mammoth sausage on a nicely toasted bun. Its log cabin setting also only further immerses you into the jovial German mountainside atmosphere. Something sweet is naturally the next logical step. Options range from oversized lollipops, to intricately made gingerbreads, and the delicious, large crepes must not be forgotten; an absolute delight. Much more is available, and overall it is not too expensive and of a very high standard. Don’t bother with dinner before you go, just indulge once you’re there.
Then of course there is the main attraction, the famous and fabulous Bavarian beer hall. A unique experience quite unlike any British club or pub, it alone certainly justifies a visit. Inside is surprisingly big, with large wooden benches and tables lined up throughout, which are always swiftly occupied by around 6pm. There is even a live band in the front, ‘Mundy and Friends’. Dressed in Lederhosen they enthusiastically serenade an increasingly drunken audience with both German folk music and versions of classics such as ‘Yellow Submarine’. The chorus lyrics however, were replaced with ‘we all love the people of Leeds’. They are great fun, and pretty soon the crowd are intensely involved, on their feet, singing along and clashing their huge steins together in merriment. These monstrous litre beer steins are an absolute must, though if you fancied something different, then festive mulled wines, Bailey’s hot chocolate or a peculiar tasting rum slush puppy are also available.
The Market can set you back quite a bit; the beer hall especially. Steins are a tenner (including a £3 for the glass) and a small glass of mulled wine is £6 with a deposit too. With food too, it’s an expensive night out, made less enjoyable if you’re part of the mammoth hour-long queue for the beer tent in the late evening or on a Saturday.
That said, it’s a really enjoyable experience and worth at least one trip, if not more. Considering you don’t have to pay entry, it isn’t too unreasonable, especially in comparison with the cost of a standard night out in Leeds. It’s a welcome change of pace and a great laugh.
Words: Neil Duffy
Photos: Leo Garbutt
