First for our series of Fashion month reviews are the finest shows from New York. From DVF, to Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta to Carolina Herrera, or Givenchy’s welcome intrusion we’ve got you covered on all the major designers as well as those to look out for. Whether it was spectacular sets, the famous and up and coming supermodels, or the fresh and fabulous collections themselves read our mini reviews below.
Fashion’s Finest – What the world’s famous had to offer
After revealing their surprise move to New York from Paris, Givenchy – you could say – had additional pressure to live up to. Tisci’s S/S16 collection was a monochromatic dream with luscious silk, stunning beadwork, on-trend fringe and luxurious fur included. We love the harmonised blend of soft ivory with the bold gold to create a glamorous outcome. The Italian designer included menswear and denim from the new Givenchy line, as well as recruiting makeup maestro Pat McGrath who continued with last seasons striking facial embellishments (multiplied by ten!). On a set made out of recycled materials against a backdrop of World Trade Centre paying homage to 9/11, and Ave Maria surrounding the atmosphere, the collection justified it’s place in America’s fashion capital. Meanwhile, Peter Copping had a rather tough job to take over from the late fashion connoisseur whilst stamping his mark on the brand, but the latest Oscar de la Renta collection was truly a romantic, sentimental fantasy. With an ode to Oscar’s favourite flower the carnation was incorporated within the show; in invites, as props and as prominent motifs on dresses. There were billowing taffeta ballgowns of pastel colours, ruffles suited for a flamenco dancer and crimson as the colour of the hour.
L-R: Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta
The British designer Victoria Beckham unveiled a collection full of sporty sophistication. With floaty, loose silhouettes and playful prints; from surfer to floral to check, her surprisingly colourful collection whilst not the usually refined designer we’re used to, is the perfect fit for S/S. On the other hand, DVF’s flirty, feminine line was the polar contrast. Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner were amongst those who showcased the pretty scarf prints, golden butterflies and floral accents for a festival ideal collection from the American icon. Another American legend Carolina Herrera supported DVF’s use of pink in her incredibly chic and modern show. A first for the famous Frick where the House of Herrera was presented, the collection boasted pleats aplenty, soft tulle to create a sense of daintiness and a rose inspired colour palette for a fresh finish.
L-R: Victoria Beckham, DVF, House of Herrera
DKNY was guaranteed an overhaul with the introduction of creative directors Osborne and Chow of Public School NYC. A cool, urban revamp saw this through with a minimal, monochrome collection fit for the modern consumer and filled with revolutionary technological usage. Calvin Klein revived one of our favourite silhouettes in his new collection, the dress which resonates with the brand still and famously seen on the likes of Kate Moss. The slip dresses are back and here to stay with a fresh twist; sharper necklines, extra straps and even knitted versions! To accompany them are the must-have sleek anklet trainers.
L-R: DKNYSS16: ‘Numerous looks in the collection utilized a digital printing technique where an image is scanned repeatedly before being printed directly onto fabric’, Creative directors of DKNY Maxwell Osborne and Dao Yi Chow, Calvin Klein
Ombre gowns, feathers galore and tonnes of tulle were used to assemble Marchesa’s latest collection. In their typical princess fashion, but with what seemed like birds as inspiration this was a Spring collection we were less aspired by. He’s known for dressing the stars in spectacular works of art and Naeem Khan’s S/S16 show promised more breathtaking red carpet moments. With a show inspired by his many journeys; from Mexico to the South of France and muses from the 50’s and 60’s came a variety of designs from bohemian to regal looks. The unexpected and at times overfilled collection boasted elaborate embroidery, rich embellishments and floral beading. However, the many myriads of colours as well as the bold accessories tipped the collection too far, as it often seemed redundant and we couldn’t help but wish for a stripped back version of the show. Closing the week in spectacular fashion was a buoyant and energetic Marc Jacobs show. With an extravaganza at the famous theatre Ziegfeld a marquee bragged ‘Marc Jacobs: One Night Only’. Inside, there were ushers handy, personalised popcorn and drinks, and a screen showing scenes from the outdoor red carpet. With theatrics so heightened the clothing had to match or raise the bar. Americana inspired; varsity jackets, pop art, tough leather, fringe and stripes all meshed to create a nostalgic collection and a NYFW conclusion with a bang!
L-R: Marchesa, Naeem Khan, Marc Jacobs
Unsung Heroes – Let’s not forget
In what can be seen as a controversial turn Christian Siriano took Morocco (though he’s never been) as inspiration for S/S. Chic fringe, stunning embroidery, silky drapery and loose hijabs were the result. Rachel Zoe’s dreamy boho collection filled with intricate details in suitable holiday colours was a gorgeous addition to New York’s extravagance. Honouring his Nepalese background Prabal Gurung’s show honoured his roots with a colour palette reflecting his inspiration. Dazzling swoon worthy dresses took to his catwalk in a commendable style.
L-R: Christian Siriano, Rachel Zoe, Prabal Gurung
There was a dark fairytale from the sisters at Rodarte, with lashings of lace, metallic shoes and gorgeous summery gold accessories. In what was one of our favourite collections from the opening week of fashion month Proenza Schouler was packed full of ruffles, tiebacks and mesh to form a modern, grungy aesthetic with lust-worthy chic shoes for accessories. He sure knows how to create a commotion and Kanye West did so again after a last minute scheduling into NYFW. Utility jackets, army style combats and oversized sweats in a range of colours transforming darker; from tan to black was what Yeezy impressively had to offer. He’s neglected claims of any political statements behind the show, but we can’t help conspiring underlying meanings.
L-R: Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Yeezy
Round of Applause – The ones to know
L-R: Alice and Olivia, ADEAM, Bibhu Mohaptra, Delpozo
Images: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/
Rukaiyah Dadhiwala