Rooted in decadence and an overwhelming feeling of VIP, resort season always gets our sartorial senses tingling. Resort collections are named so, simply because they used to be items jet-setting clients would buy for their extravagant excursions. Though the collections are created for less of a specific market, they’ve gotten far more important in our fashion calendars. Each one acts as a precursor to the main spring and autumn shows. A fashion taste test of sorts to play around with themes, fabrics and the desired reaction from consumers.
It can also be a way of designers sometimes taking elements of successful but extravagant looks and minimalizing them in a fresh way. Again, a way of reinvention, rejuvenation and experimentation. Though resort has only been accorded pre-eminence in the calendar quite recently, there are still designers whose collections are waited for with the most anticipation and racing hearts.
Anybody with a regular eye on resort and pre shows will probably mention Valentino before anybody. Frequently merging the gothic and the romantic, all things sheer and lacy are favourites of the brand. This time around was no exception. The dresses were simply sublime. Combining elements of a dress one may have designed as a little girl, playing fairy queen, with the subtle sophistication of the other pieces, their pre-fall 2015 collection was something to write home about. Though delicate and floaty at times, the mood remains mixed with slouchy knits and heavy woollen sixties numbers. Imagine Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s if the movie was a trendy, 60s, urban version of little red riding hood and you’re about there. Their resort collections nods far more towards the 70’s mixing elements of fringing, suede and heavily embroidered stiff fabrics.
Wowing the most though arguably with their star-embellished celestial gowns and intricate lace that looks like it must have blinded those that created it, Valentino are always a winner. Resort and pre collections are underrated in our opinion as a brilliant source of fashion-inspiration. So watch this space, because you never know what the next little microcosm might have in store for us.
Jesse Jones