Upon the advice of an old Loiner ‘in the know’ when it comes to the trendy world of gastronomy, I headed down the back streets of the city to a quaint pub called Whitelock’s.
Steeped in history and hidden down a small alleyway this pub dates back to 1715 and is quite clearly a local hot spot which was only exaggerated by the lack of southern accents. Its seen students come and go, including the likes of critic Jay Rayner and actor Peter O’Toole, but this gem is only for those who know where to look, a platform 9 and ¾ of restaurants. I swear I’d walked past that understated chalk board sign a million times and never noticed it. Its decor reminds me of what I can imagine Leeds looked like prior to the building of the Victoria Quarter, the introduction of Harvey Nichols, and that charming man in the top hat and tail coat at it’s door. It is a dated, brass polished, mirror embellished, leather seated wonder, a find that is charming and rugged at the same time. Though the exterior acts only as an accompaniment to the food.
The menu is small, but finely executed, it showcases a selection of Yorkshire’s finest ingredients without being overstated . On its starters menu you’ll find the likes of home-made black pudding scotch eggs, smocked mackerel and horseradish cream, spiced tian of white and brown crab meat with chilli mango salsa. All sounds pretty gastro given the traditional soggy pub grub you would expect to find in such a place. That said the main courses bend more towards the traditional pub food ethos, that is pies and fish and chips (but brown ale battered at that) which seems only right given the ambiance of the place, though this led me to the point of ‘ill just order a selection of starters next time’.
it’s a nice mid-way stop between gastro and pub food, with prices to match; starters and desserts are all around £5 and mains all more or less £10. If you go expecting comforting pub food you will be pleasantly surprised by the unexpected twists that the menu offers , however if go expecting gastro extravagance you’re in the wrong place. Whitelocks is old school charm, it’s not Blumenthal’s new venture, but it sure is traditional locally sourced hearty food served well .
The hidden interior and exterior make this pub quite the find if you’re willing to search it out. It’s an insight into classic pubs, it is a heritage site that comes with a side plate of Yorkshire cheese, and it is something we should strive to support. The locals know it is one of the best in Leeds yet the atmosphere remains homely and comforting. Leeds is my home away from home, but I think Whitelocks might be my home pub away from my home pub.
Words: Poppy Bethell